Woven fabric



J1me 1931- c. ROSENSTEIN ,379

WOVEN FABRIC Filed Feb. 23, 1929 Patented June 2, 1931 UNITED STATESCHAIR-LES Rosnivsrnm, or 'rA'rnnsoN, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNQR T0Ro'sEnsr'EIN 330st;

' & HOOK, on NEW YORK, N. Y., A CORPORATION on NEW JERSEY WOVEN FABRICApplication filed February 23,1929. 'Serial No. 342,226.

My invention relates to woven fabrics, and particularly to fabrics inwhich stripes are dis osed therein at predetermined intervals.

ne of the principal. objects of my invention is to provide a. wovenfabric which ornamental or distinctive lines or stripes are producedtherein in the warp or weft, or in both the warp and weft, by threads ofa different color or material from the ground fabric.

Another object of the invention is to pro- Vide a woven fabric in whichstripes are produced by warp threads of different color or materialsuitably arranged with respect tointermediate warp threads similar to ordifferent from the gro-imd fabric threads.

Another object of the invention is the provision of binding threads inan open mesh fabric whereby possibility of the fabric being pulled apartwill be minimized.

A further object is to produce fabric of tinsel, wire, hair, artificialhair, or any other suitable stiffening threads, with stripes or lines ofcotton, linen, silk, rayon, cellulose, straw, or other suitable fiberformed in the fabric at intervals, whereby the fabric will have theappearance of being made up of a number of relatively narrow strips orbraids of cloth stitched together along their longitudinal edges. Thematerials preferably used are horsehair (natural or artificial) for theground fabric, and cotton or viscose threads for the lines or stripes.Relatively limp threads having good frictional qualities are used in thepreferred form of my invention.

The striped cloth thus produced may be used for various purposes. One ofthe principal uses contemplated is as a body effect for millinery cloth.Millinery shapes formed of haircloth so woven as to be transparent orpractically so are considered desirable because of their lightness andcoolness, and because they permit the hair of the wearer to be seenthrough the cloth when the hat is used Without a lining. It has'beenfound,

' however, that ordinary haircloth, when used for this purpose, isunattractive because of its'plainness and smooth, glossy appearance. Inorder to enhance the appearance of cloth and strengthen the fabric andthus render des'ignedforsuch uses, efforts have been made to incorporateornamental lines or stripes in millinery formed of haircloth.Heretofore, it has been found necessary to accomplish this result andeffect by fashioning the shape 5.5

from narrow widths of hair braid, these being secured together bystitching along their adjacent longitudinal edges. Haircloth of thiskind, and producedb-y this method, is unsatisfactory, and itsmanufacture is tedious t'o and expensive.

These defects are overcomeand the production of ornamental andattractive millinery shapes fashioned from fabric of hair or'otherstiffening threads is greatly facilitated by the use of the cloth whichforms my present invention. The lines or stripes are incorporated in thefabric in a single operation, and the fabric, when woven, is ready foruse for millinery purposes. The production of millinery shapes from thisfabric is a simple and inexpensive matter, as the shape may be formed ofa comparatively small number of attractive because of the lines orstripes in the cloth, but the binding threads by which these lines orstripes are formedten'd to hold the fabric and the millinery shapeformed therefrom m'ore'substantial and less liable to stretch unduly andthus lose its original shape.

Other objects and advantages of my in- 1 vention will'be apparent fromthe following specification, wherein the same reference charactersindicate similar parts of the fabric in the several figures of thedrawings. 7 In the drawings, Figure 1 is a plan View showing a somewhatdiagrammatic representation of a fabric prepared in accordance with myinvention.

Figure 2 isa view "similar to Fig. 1, showin a modified'form of fabric,

lifigure 3 is anenlarged plan view, similar to Fig, 1, of a portion ofthe fabric illus trated in Fig. 1, and i Figure 4 is a'perspective viewof a millinery shape exemplifying one of the specific uses TW for whichfabric prepared in accordance with my invention is designed or adapted.

The fabric illustrated is composed of two separate sets of warp threads,one set being stiffening threads and the other set fiber threadsemployed to produce the lines or stripes. The weft is composed ofstiffening threads preferably of the same material and color as the setof stiffening warp threads.

The stripes may be incorporated in the fabric by straight, spiral, orratine threads introduced in the weft, as well as by binding threads inthe warp, in which case the stripes will run both ways of the fabric, asshown in Fig. 2.

I prefer, however, to produce the stripes by means of the warp threadsalone. As shown in detail in Fig. 3, the stiffening warp threads 1 aredivided into groups or bands by the interjection of a plurality of(preferably two) fiber threads 2, 2a, which may be termed bindingthreads, and between which are one or more intermediate threads la,which may be either stiffening threads similar-to threads 1 or'fiberthreads similar to threads 2, 2a. The threads 2 and 2a preferably havegood frictional qualities.

The two or more binding warp threads2, 260, although from differentshafts of the harness, arecaused by suitable mechanism to operatetogether as a single binding thread.

) One shaft rises as the shed opens. One of the binding threads 2, as itrises, with its shaft,

pulls the other binding thread'2a with it. The fiber binding threads 2,2a, are thus wrapped'one way around-the. intermediate threads 1a, whoseshafts are idle. As the 4, inserted at appropriate or desired intervalsin the weft.

I claim:

1. An open mesh fabric having a weft of artificial horsehair and a warpcomposed of artificial horsehair ground threads and fiber threadsarranged at intervals in said horsehair warp over one or moreintermediate threads, the fiber threads being crossed alternately fromone side to the other of the intermediate threads, forming parallellines or stripes. having a wavy appearance between adjacent bands ofartificial horsehair fabric.

2. A woven fabric comprising a body of relatively smooth artificialcellulose threads and binding threads having better frictional crossedover from side to side ofspaced ground threads to hold the fabricintact.

4. An artificial haircloth fabric including threads of good frictionalqualities spaced in the artificial.haircloth'ground and crossing-T fromside to' side of certain of the ground threads to hold the fabric intactand to impart a, striped-appearance thereto."

CHARLES ROSENSTEIN.

shed opens again, the shaftfor :anotherbinding thread, e. 'g.,' 2a,rises'whilethe'same two intermediate thread shafts are idle, and thefiber warp threads 2a are thus wrapped around the same intermediatestiffening or fiber threads 1a,in the opposite way.

The binding threads 2, 2a; may be bound at anydesired intervals;Thewinding of the binding threads may occur at every two, three, or fourpicks, but may be eife'cted,'if

desired, at every pick or at every fourth or fifth pick, or at evenlongerintervals. The

bound and at which the direction of crossing ening orlfiber threadswillchange may be varied at will, and will be dependentprin cipally upon theparticular cloth to be made.

intervals atwhich the fiber, threads will'be In the cloth illustrated inFig. 1 the lines or stripes are formed only in the warp, the

weft threads 3 being preferably-of the same i kind as warp threads 1. Inthe modified form .of' cloth shown in Fig. 2, lines'orstripesareprovided in the warp. by binding threads 2, 2a, in the manner shown inFigs. 1 and 3, while crossstripes are also p'rovided'by threads,preferably ratine, or spiral threads .I V

